Sunday, November 8, 2009

1 year anniversary in vegas...no climbing and weight gain for sure




MY WEEKEND GETAWAY



I spent my weekend in the hospital. I had so much pressure on my chest and was very short of breath. I know you guys do not know but I had an open-heart surgery (I had a valve repaired)  in 2007 and never really recouped to my normal being. So, with that said my diagnosis was pericarditis (inflammation of the sac that surrounds and protects the heart), and the second diagnosis was fibromyalgia. Anyhow, I was there since Friday until today and I asked my husband to bring me the G since I was going to have time to get familiar with it while getting treated. Of course I had to take a photo with my cell phone and here it is: "G N ME" again, lol. I feel much better though, still short of breath but I am glad it wasn't anything threatening.
I praise God for it.

Sunday, November 1, 2009

ian caldwell on lucky pidgeon

i met ian caldwell this weekend, fiveten and black diamond climber. he is a smith local, and a super nice guy who has pretty much done every route there except a few. he definitely fits into the oldguydotcom criteria.
ian and his wife had all the beta to all the routes and both were very nice. he was also super inspiring to watch.
here he is doing lucky pidgeon, 13c, in the aggro gully.
rad.

ian caldwell on lucky pidgeon from david tyson on Vimeo.

oldguy does the rockclimbing

today summed up what i hate and love about the climbing.
this weekend i set out to smith to do a couple things. one was to do aggro monkey, the other was to do something else too, not sure what.
i got on the aggro yesterday and it didnt feel that bad. i worked it out and felt like it would go first thing this morning. well after a couple warm ups, i went to do it and went through the start. i felt really good and strong and the moves were feeling easy. right hand crimp, deadpoint to the left hand crimp, no problem, but just as i started to move my feet up the right foot i was using broke off. dammit. so next go it felt good too, and the new foot i tried to use broke. ok, try 3. made it through the beginning crux and no feet broke, awesome. the rest of the moves were feeling easy and as i was doing the next hard move, my foot blew off, smith rock style. dammit. i dont really get mad when i fall off stuff, just as long as it is because i am pumped, or the move is hard, or a hold breaks. but when i fall off because i was dumb, or didnt climb smart, or just plain made a mistake, then i get mad, and upset with myself. this is something i preach to the kids all the time while they are competing. get pumped sure, fall off cuz the moves are hard, sure, but dont make mistakes and make sure you climb smart.
then the sun started in on the route. too bad, save it for next time down there. unfortunately, that may not be for a while. the frustrating part of smith is that it is farther than a one day session.
so we walked out of the gully and down to oxygen. i have tried this route 2wice before. each time it takes a go to refigure the beta, but i havent made it back to give it a redpoint go. today i hung 50 times through the route the first go. then surprised myself with the send next go. that felt good. the love and hate, i guess that is why we do this. so frustrating, and so satisfying.

SHEENA GAVE ME MY FIRST BLOG AWARD





I was given this award by Sheena, her creations are great...stop by her blog and give her a visit!!

The rules are this: I need to pass this award on to five people, post on their blog to let them know I left this award, and then I need to answer a list of questions in ONE word.

1. Where is your cell phone? unknown
2. Your hair? black
3. Your mother? away
4. Your father? away
5. Your favorite food? steak
6. Your dream last night? bad
7. Your favorite drink? water
8. Your dream/goal? travel
9. What room are you in? bedroom
10. Your hobby? crafts
11. Your fear? cancer
12. Where do you want to be in 6 years?  healthy
13. Where were you last night? home
14. Something that you aren't? outgoing
15. Muffins? corn
16. Wish list item? painless
17. Where did you grow up? far
18. Last thing you did? play
19. What are you wearing? jeans
20. Your TV? color
21. Your Pets? fish
22. Friends? few
23. Your life? nice
24. Your mood? relax
25. Missing Someone? grandparents
26. vehicle? car
27. Something your not wearing? shoes
28. Your favorite store? ross
29. Your favorite color? sage
30. When was the last time you laughed? today
31. Last time you cried? week
32. Your best friend?family
33. One place that I go to over and over? kitchen
34. Facebook? no
35. Favorite place to eat? Texas Roadhouse
Thanks Sheena!

Here are the five people I"m passing the award to:

1.Lisa

2.Kelly Marie

3.Amanda

4.Samantha

5.Jeannie