oldguy does the rockclimbing

today summed up what i hate and love about the climbing.
this weekend i set out to smith to do a couple things. one was to do aggro monkey, the other was to do something else too, not sure what.
i got on the aggro yesterday and it didnt feel that bad. i worked it out and felt like it would go first thing this morning. well after a couple warm ups, i went to do it and went through the start. i felt really good and strong and the moves were feeling easy. right hand crimp, deadpoint to the left hand crimp, no problem, but just as i started to move my feet up the right foot i was using broke off. dammit. so next go it felt good too, and the new foot i tried to use broke. ok, try 3. made it through the beginning crux and no feet broke, awesome. the rest of the moves were feeling easy and as i was doing the next hard move, my foot blew off, smith rock style. dammit. i dont really get mad when i fall off stuff, just as long as it is because i am pumped, or the move is hard, or a hold breaks. but when i fall off because i was dumb, or didnt climb smart, or just plain made a mistake, then i get mad, and upset with myself. this is something i preach to the kids all the time while they are competing. get pumped sure, fall off cuz the moves are hard, sure, but dont make mistakes and make sure you climb smart.
then the sun started in on the route. too bad, save it for next time down there. unfortunately, that may not be for a while. the frustrating part of smith is that it is farther than a one day session.
so we walked out of the gully and down to oxygen. i have tried this route 2wice before. each time it takes a go to refigure the beta, but i havent made it back to give it a redpoint go. today i hung 50 times through the route the first go. then surprised myself with the send next go. that felt good. the love and hate, i guess that is why we do this. so frustrating, and so satisfying.